This 2019 All-America Selections winner is Big Duck Gold Marigold.  It looks good in both a planting bed as well as in containers.  Large blooms and full bushy plants really stand out.  
​
The Teaching & Display Garden is open to the public for self-guided tours during day light hours seven days a week mid-May through mid-September.   

The Station’s Teaching and Display Garden is located at 780 Orchard Lane off Highway 70 just east of Spooner. Due to construction on Highway 70,  Orchard Lane and Hwy 70 is closed at the Yellow River bridge so the only access to the Garden is via Orchard Lane to the north from Ramsdell or Ojibwa Rd.

Techniques
Deadheading is the removal of old or spent flowers and is beneficial to most herbaceous ornamentals.  Seed production can drain a plant’s energy and cause foliage to deteriorate.  Deadheading can promote vegetative and root growth rather than seed production.  By deadheading you can prolong bloom periods, initiate a second smaller bloom, improve overall appearance, and prevent self-seeding.  Some examples of species that benefit from deadheading are:  Daylilies, Hostas, Lady’s Mantle, and Lambs Ear. 
 
Cutting back refers to pruning a plant to renew its appearance or encourage a new flush of growth or flowering, control its height or flowering time.  Pinching can accomplish the same objective.  If you travel for several weeks, you can cut certain plants by one third to delay bloom time until you get back home.  Examples:  Dianthus, Candy Tuft, Moss Phlox, Catmint, Geranium Amsonia, Baptisia, Achillea, Aster, Mums, Sedum, Joe Pye Weed. 
 
Pinching allows for experimentation and usually involves removing only the growing tips.  Generally do this early in the growing season because it will delay bloom time.  Examples:  Sedum, Shasta daisy, Joe Pye Weed, Aster, Artemisia. 
 
Thinning can prevent disease, create sturdier stems, and increase the size of flowers.  It can often help to increase air circulation to help prevent powdery mildew.  Use this on:  Aster, Delphinium, Mondarda, Phlox, Bulgeweed, Lambs Ear, and Lady’s Mantle. 
 
Disbudding involves removing side buds so that the plant’s terminal bud produces larger flowers on a longer stem.  Removing the terminal bud will cause the side buds to produce smaller but more flowers; it can also eliminate the need for staking.  Examples:  Mums, Carnations, Pinks, Dahlias, Peonies. 
 
Deadleafing removes individual dead leaves to improve appearance.  Examples:  Elijah Blue grass in spring, Lady’s Mantle in summer, and Hellebores (Lenten Rose) in the spring. 
 
A great source of information on all these techniques is The Well-Tended Perennial Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust, Timber Press, 2006.  

Article and photo credit:  Sue Reinardy, Master Gardener

Pollinators love verbena! Hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths are all frequent visitors. Bees of all types love verbena, too. Known for withstanding the pressure of hot, dry conditions, Verbena is a member of the Verbenaceae family, which is comprised of 800 species in 32 genera, many of them native to the Americas and Asia. This family is characterized by clumps or spikes of flowers on heat-loving herbs, shrubs, trees, or vines. There are many varied types and habits, including upright and tall, as well as mounded and trailing. Some verbena make great ground covers as well.

Hybrid varieties generally have larger flowers, brighter and more saturated colors, and larger, more weather-tolerant leaves than their species relatives.  bred to be more heat, water-stress, and disease tolerant (especially powdery mildew).

Leaves and foliage are often dense and, in many species, “hairy.” Its flowers are small with five petals, arranged in dense clusters. Typical colors include shades of blue and purple, but they can also be found in white and pink shades. Others are bred to withstand heat and humidity with flowers and bulky growth non-stop through the growing season.

While verbena seed is available, many of the newer varieties that have the desirable traits are vegetatively propagated and can be found as young plants at your local garden retailer in the spring.

Verbena looks their best when their soil is kept moist, but not wet as they do not like soggy feet. If the growing medium dries down too much, it can cause flushing, commonly known as cycling-out-of-color where the plant loses blooms but remains green and leafy.

Verbena plants should be placed in sunny locations, aiming for 6+ hours of direct light. Most species perform well in the ground, landscape, hanging baskets and patio containers. For the compact-growing verbena, those work best in pots and do not have the root vigor for garden bed applications. For prolonged flowering, deadhead verbena by removing spent flower heads.

Powdery Mildew (PM) is an unfortunate occurrence on some verbena. The best practice is to look for newer varieties that have a built-in resistance. If PM does appear (it will present as white patches of fluffy fungus on leaves or stem) treat with a neem spray or your favorite fungicide.  Catching PM early is the best solution, as this disease can spread quickly, and its fungus blocks sunlight to the plant’s nutrition system, making the plant unable to produce food, which will ultimately cause the plant to perish.

Gardening with verbenas can elevate your landscape design and add texture and color to your patio containers. You’ll appreciate their colorful branches and how well they play with other flowers in your garden.
​
Credit to https://ngb.org/year-of-the-verbena/
​Contributed by:  Vicki Gee-Treft, Master Gardener Volunteer

​Growing GREENS, which can be served raw, wilted, blanched, sautéed, or grilled.
 
The Asteraceae family has some of the best-known salad greens:

• Lettuce, a mild-flavored leafy annual, is available in many types, textures, colors, and shapes.
• Chicories like endive and radicchio are perennial herbaceous plants that punctuate savory dishes with a bitter flavor.
• Dandelion greens also offer a unique flavor and health benefits.

The Amaranthaceae family includes another popular green:

• Spinach, a leafy annual, is harvested at any stage from baby to full-size leaves.

Don’t overlook the Brassicaceae family for superior flavor and cold hardiness:

• Arugula, also called “rocket”, is a spicy-flavored leafy annual with a strong following among greens lovers.
• Kale is a nutrient-rich green, leafy, cruciferous vegetable.
• Mustard Greens offer a zesty and colorful dimension to salad mixes.

For added flavor and visual appeal, think beyond the aisle of standard greens:

• Asian Greens offer a wide array of shoots, leaves, and choys (thick white stalks) that bring a unique look and flavor to salads.
• Chard, aka Swiss Chard, is a green leafy vegetable with large leaf stalks typically prepared separately from stems.
• Herbs, from basil, cilantro, watercress to dill and more, can take salads and entire meals to the next level.
• “Tops” are the tender greens of beet and turnip.

Greens are all unique in how they grow best, so follow planting instructions on the package for each variety to ensure a bountiful and continuous harvest.

Most greens prefer full sun and cool weather (50 to 75°F). Soil that’s evenly moist, but not too wet, yields the best greens. As a general guide, spinach, kale, and mustard greens can be sown six weeks before the last frost, followed by lettuce and chard three weeks later. You can choose to transplant seedlings to get a jump on the season or sow seeds directly into the garden or containers. To ensure a continuous harvest, reseed as often as every few weeks depending on the variety. Note, store seed in the fridge in an airtight container to extend longevity.

To prepare outdoor soil, consider mixing in 1 cup of organic fertilizer for every 10’ row. For containers, choose one that is large enough that it won’t easily dry out. Fill with quality potting mix and consider mixing in peat and coir (coconut fiber). Planting depth varies by variety, so be sure to read seed package instructions.

After germination, thin seedlings to desired spacing. If your goal is baby leaf, keep the spacing fairly dense. If you’d like to harvest whole heads, ensure spacing of 4”-8” apart within a row.

For baby leaf, you can start harvesting when leaves are 3-4” tall. Many varieties will tolerate “cut-and-come-again” harvests. Allow full-size heads 3-5 weeks after transplant to mature. Once leaves reach maturity, harvest right away to encourage new growth and another harvest in just a few weeks.

Leafy greens will have different flavors at different stages of harvest. Experiment to find out which flavor works best for you!  As much as possible, monitor for over-exposure to heat and water to avoid “stressed greens” that taste bitter rather than fresh. When plants bolt (or send up flower stalks), pull them up as the quality will start to diminish after this.

In our colder region, hardier greens like kale, mustard and spinach extend our season, and row cover protection can help achieve an earlier first harvest in the spring and a later final harvest in the fall.
 
Use your fresh salad greens in unexpected ways. Red Butterhead makes a fabulous and healthy burger wrap. Grilled Romaine? A tasty twist on an old favorite. Wilted spinach? It’s incredible. Massaged kale? Pair bitter greens with a sweet dressing and your favorite soft cheese for a gourmet flavor combination. Sturdier greens like romaine, kale, and chicory hold up well when mixed with grains, nuts, and thick dressings. Choose a theme and create a new and interesting salad mix every time. Try it and you’ll be hooked!
 
Credit to https://ngb.org/year-of-the-salad-greens/

Contributed by:  Vicki Gee-Treft

Part of the iris family, a “glad” is often described as a flowering bulb, but the bulb is actually a “corm.” Each year the plant produces a new corm and discards the old one. In our zone 3 climate, the new corm is dug up in the fall, has its stem and leaves removed (all but an inch), then dried for 1-2 weeks in a warm place with good air circulation, and finally stored dry, indoors at about 50 degrees for planting next spring.

Gladiolus should be grown in full sun, whether in a cutting garden, perennial garden, vegetable garden, raised bed or container. Be creative, put glads front and center, pair them with cannas, colocascia (elephant ears), caladiums, or coleus. Explore planting a variety of types, heights and flower color, form and size.

The flowers generally begin opening 80-90 days after planting. To extend the bloom time, plant the first batch in spring after all danger of frost has passed, and plant additional corms every week or two until early summer.

Before planting, prepare well-drained soil to a depth of 6 to 10”, adding compost and an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Plant “grandiflora” glads 6 to 8” deep to help keep their stems upright and “dwarf” glads at 4 to 6” deep, spacing both types 4 to 6” apart. After planting, applying 2 to 3” of mulch helps retain moisture and control weeds.
Water regularly and deeply, at least an inch of water per week. When stressed by heat/drought, glads are susceptible to disease and thrips/spider mites that disfigure the flowers. Support glads from leaning or toppling from wind or rain by tying them to bamboo canes—or plant shorter, 2-foot glads.

High-quality, larger corms will give you taller stems with more flowers. For the longest vase life, harvest glads when the bottom two flowers are fully open. The rest will gradually unfurl in the vase. If you experience difficulty with integrating taller glads in a tabletop arrangement, shorten the stems and remove a couple of the lower flowers or cut some of the top. Snap off spent flowers and recut the stem as needed.

Credit to https://ngb.org/year-of-the-gladiolus/

Contributed by:  Vicki Gee-Treft, Master Gardener Volunteer

Contributed by:  Jill Schmalz-Washkuhn, Master Gardener Volunteer

Seed starting indoors can be a great way to satisfy that craving to get out into your garden before Mother Nature cooperates, however, there are some rules of thumb to follow to keep that thumb green. Read on to discover seven common mistakes on starting seeds indoors, based on great insight from Kerry Michaels as well as our own Pam Davies:   

1. No window view: Unfortunately, windows are typically not the best place for young seedlings as they can be drafty, the glass conducts cold, and nighttime temperatures can drop fast. Even that south-facing window likely is not a great option.
2. Let the Light Shine: In addition to consistent temperature, seedlings do best with consistent light. A cool, white fluorescent double-bulb hanging fixture suspended 2-3 inches above the seedling trays for 12 to 16 hours per day is ideal. One option is to purchase large fluorescent shop lights outfitted with one warm bulb and one cool bulb. Suspend the lights from chains so that you can raise the lights higher as the seedlings grow. Keep the lights as close to the seedlings as possible without touching them (2 to 3 inches). When seedlings first appear, keep the lights turned on for 12 to 16 hours per day.
3. Applying Too Much or Too Little Water: The amount of water you use is one of the biggest factors in the success of seedling growth. It is key to keep the sterile seed-starting medium damp but not wet. To increase your chances of success, you can create a mini-greenhouse to keep soil moist: cover the container with plastic until the seeds germinate. Also, water from the bottom to enable the seedlings to soak up water through the container drainage holes. Add water slowly for 10 to 30 minutes, and use your finger to touch the top of the soil to ensure that moisture has reached the top of the container. Be sure to check soil moisture at least once a day. There are also self-watering systems available. 
4. Keep it Cool, but Not Too Cool: Most seeds must be kept warm -- about 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit -- to germinate. One favorite option is to place the seedlings on top of the refrigerator. Another option is seed-warming mats that are placed under the seed trays.
5. Too Much Too Soon! Be careful not to expose the seedlings to too much sun and wind when you take them outdoors for the first time. The sun in late May can be tricky as temps may still be cool but the sun is powerful and can burn even the hardiest of plants. Begin hardening in a sheltered spot in shade then dappled sun for a few hours the first few days, increasing exposure until the plants are reveling in their new environment. Also, there is no need to fertilize during the hardening off phase, but watering is a must!
6. Take the Temperature! Before planting in the garden, be sure that soil temps are warm enough to encourage root growth and to avoid shock. The warmer the better is a good rule of thumb. Your beds should be fully warmed and the soil turned to a depth of at least 8 - 12 inches, depending on what you are growing. In plant hardiness zones 3b-4b, our average last frost is May 24-30. Keep in mind when choosing seeds, especially when sowing directly into the garden bed, that our growing season here in Northwest Wisconsin is roughly 100 days. Hardy plants such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cabbage, onions, leeks and parsley can take ground temps as cold as 40 degrees but if they have been started indoors and are not used to those temps you might want to wait until the ground warms a bit more. You can sow these seeds directly into the ground at these soil temps. Tender plants will need soil temps of at least 50 to 65 degrees. Basil, tomatoes and peppers, need the warmer soil temps. Squash, pumpkins, and sweet corn can take the cooler, while cucumber and muskmelon like the middle range.
7. Giving Up Too Soon! Starting seeds can be difficult, but it is a process filled with lessons learned that will only improve your efforts in the future. Growing plants from seeds takes dedication, attention and time, but can be extremely worthwhile.

Additional resources:
https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#hardening-off-seedlings-1179860

Author:  Kimberly Kayler

Although the days may be getting longer and we often see hints of spring this time of year – usually followed by another cold blast – we all know that planting season is coming. To this end, you may be considering starting your seeds indoors, which is a great option. Seed packets, starter mix and containers will have started appearing in the stores in late January and February. Seeds will sometimes be discounted this time of year as well.  However, there are many rules of thumb to follow related to starting seeds indoors. Read on for some great tips by Kerry Michaels as well as our own Pam Davies:  

1. Don’t Get Over-Zealous! Since most plants are ready to go outside four to six weeks after you start the seeds, it is key not to start too early!
2. Spring Cleaning! Whether you buy new or reuse your equipment, it is key to sanitize your containers before starting. Wash them in hot soapy water and rinse well or just submerge them in a tub of water with 10% bleach for a few minutes. You may even consider pre-filling your containers in the fall with a mixture of potting soil and starter mix and arrange them in the trays. 
3. They Are Finicky! Know your seeds as they can be finicky when it comes to how deep they are planted. Some seeds need complete darkness to germinate while others require light. Proper planting depth is usually provided on the seed packet. A general rule of thumb is to plant seeds two to three times as deep as they are wide.
4. Don’t Sow too Many!  If you are new to sowing seeds indoors, start off slow. If you sow more seeds than you can reasonably maintain, it will become challenging to nurture the seedlings into adulthood. Depending on the type of plant you want to grow, you might be able to direct-sow seeds in outdoor containers or in the ground when outdoor temperatures warm up. It also is a good idea to label your containers.
5. Watch Your Water Levels! Keeping the soil moist is essential for starting seeds and to nurture seedlings. However, though the soil should be visibly wet, it should not be sodden. As it dries out note the change in color of the soil. A spritzer also can be used to keep the soil moist, spritzing twice a day or more. A small fan can be used if needed to keep air moving and prevent fungus. Once your seedlings have several sets of true leaves (more than just the first two cotyledon leaves), you can start thinking about fertilizing. A weak (1/4 strength) all purpose, water soluble fertilizer applied once a week will do just fine. Over fertilizing can kill the young seedling so less is better.  
   
   

Now comes the “hard” part. When the seedlings are large enough to plant outdoors, you need to prepare them for the transition by hardening off. Hardening off involves exposing your plants to the elements gradually, preparing the seedlings for outdoor conditions like wind, rain and sun. To begin, place your seedlings outdoors for one hour, and then bring them back indoors. Gradually increase the amount of outdoor time every day for 6 to 10 days. You will need to make some judgment calls based on the outdoor temperature and the fragility of your seedlings. If it is a particularly cool day or very rainy, you will want to decrease the time of that hardening-off session.
For more information, read past articles on this topic:
https://www.northcountrymgv.org/blog/seed-starting-indoors 
https://www.northcountrymgv.org/blog/more-on-starting-seeds-indoors  +  https://www.northcountrymgv.org/blog/still-more-on-starting-seeds-indoors  

Author:  Kimberly Kayler

​Kevin Schoessow, Area Agricultural Development Agent with the University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension, takes you through the Teaching & Display Garden at the Spooner Ag Research Station in July 2021.